The dye class used on protein fibers including cashmere, wool, and silk. Bonds to amino acid groups in the fiber at low pH. Produces vibrant, wash-fast color when properly fixed. The alternative to reactive dyes (used on cotton) and disperse dyes (used on synthetics).

A specific breed of cashmere goat indigenous to the Alashan plateau of western Inner Mongolia. Selectively bred over generations for fiber quality — longer fiber, finer diameter, predominantly white coat. The source of Quinn's cashmere. Does not exist in Outer Mongolia. The white fiber of the Alashan is essential for accurate color dyeing across bright and pale colorways.

The process of steaming and shaping a knitted garment to its final finished dimensions on a form or frame. Blocking sets the stitch tension, evens the structure, and establishes the exact measurements the garment will maintain during wear. A garment that hasn't been properly blocked will relax and shift unpredictably during the first few wears and washes.

The domesticated silkworm species responsible for commercial silk production. Produces a continuous filament up to 1,500 meters long as it spins its cocoon. The source of all commercial mulberry silk, including the silk used in Quinn's cashmere-silk blends.

A knit construction where stitches are crossed in a regular pattern to create a raised rope or braid texture. Cables trap more air than a flat knit of the same yarn weight, increasing insulation. Classic cable constructions include the Aran, honeycomb, and rope cable patterns.

The fine, soft undercoat of the cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger), harvested by combing in spring. Distinguished from wool by its extreme fineness (14–21 microns in commercial grades vs. 18–40 microns for wool), softness, and warmth-to-weight ratio. Produced primarily in Inner Mongolia, Outer Mongolia, and Central Asia. Each goat produces approximately 150 grams of usable fiber per year.

Hand-combing removes only the fine undercoat the cashmere goat naturally sheds in spring, leaving the outer guard hairs intact. Shearing removes the entire coat mechanically. Combed fiber is longer, cleaner, and finer — and the process is less stressful for the animal. Grade A fiber requires combing, not shearing. All Quinn cashmere is hand-combed.

Total purchase price divided by total number of times the garment is worn. The metric that correctly captures the economic value of quality clothing over time. A $298 cashmere sweater worn 30 times per year for 10 years costs $0.99 per wear. A $60 sweater worn 20 times per year for 2 years costs $1.50 per wear. Use the calculator ↗

The mechanical process of separating fine cashmere undercoat fiber from coarser outer guard hairs after combing. Essential for producing usable cashmere — raw combed fiber contains a mixture of fine and coarse fiber. Dehairing yield (the percentage of usable fiber from the raw combed weight) is a key determinant of fiber cost. Higher grade fiber typically has a higher dehairing yield.

How a fabric falls and moves on the body or when held up. Determined by fiber weight, yarn structure, and knit density. Cashmere has good natural drape due to fiber fineness; cashmere-silk blends improve drape further due to the silk filament's natural fluidity. Stiffer constructions (heavier cable knits) have less drape; finer gauges have more.

The irreversible matting and shrinking of wool or cashmere fiber caused by heat, agitation, and moisture in combination. Protein fibers have a scaly surface that locks together under these conditions — the process cannot be reversed. How to avoid it: cool water, gentle agitation, no tumble dryer. A felted cashmere piece is not salvageable.

The length of individual cashmere fibers, measured in millimeters. The single most important quality indicator after fiber diameter. Grade A requires fiber over 36mm. Longer fibers stay anchored in the yarn structure and resist pilling; shorter fibers break under friction and work their way to the surface. This is the primary reason Grade A cashmere pills far less than lower grades.

A knitting method where each panel of a garment is knitted to its finished shape directly on the machine — no cutting from a flat fabric sheet. Produces cleaner, more precise panels with no material waste at the edges and a more stable structure than cut-and-sew construction. All Quinn garments use fully fashioned construction.

The number of stitches per inch in a knitted fabric. Higher gauge = finer, more densely knitted fabric. Lower gauge = chunkier, more open construction. A 7-gauge knit produces a chunky sweater; a 12-gauge or finer produces a smooth, lightweight piece. Gauge is determined by needle size and yarn weight and affects drape, warmth, and appropriate end use.

Industry quality grades for cashmere based on fiber fineness (microns) and length (mm). Grade A: under 19 microns, over 36mm. Grade B: 19–21 microns, shorter length. Grade C: over 21 microns. All Quinn cashmere is Grade A. Lower grades pill faster, lose shape sooner, and feel coarser against skin.

The tactile feel of a fabric — how it feels in the hand. Cashmere is prized for its exceptional hand: soft, warm, and smooth. Hand is determined by fiber fineness, yarn construction, and finishing. A cashmere piece with good hand feels immediately distinctive — the fiber is too fine to cause any prickle or roughness against skin.

Harmonized Tariff Schedule code — the product classification number used by U.S. Customs to determine tariff rates on imported goods. Women's and men's cashmere sweaters fall under HTS 6110.12. Quinn testified about this specific code before the USTR Section 301 Committee in 2019. See the full tariff context ↗

The Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region of northern China — the primary sourcing region for Grade A cashmere. The Alashan plateau in western Inner Mongolia is the specific area producing the finest fiber. Extreme climate (winters to –40°C) drives the undercoat development quality. Quinn has sourced from Inner Mongolia since 2003. Read more ↗

A color-block knitting technique where separate sections of different-colored yarn are worked simultaneously, each on its own bobbin. The colors meet but don't overlap, producing a clean, flat graphic pattern without carrying unused yarn across the back of the work. Creates crisp color blocking effects in garments and accessories.

The two fundamental stitches in knitting. A knit stitch produces a smooth "V" shape on the face of the work; a purl stitch produces a horizontal bar. Combinations of knit and purl stitches create all knit fabric textures: stockinette (all knit on face), rib (alternating knit/purl columns), seed stitch (alternating knit/purl in checker pattern), and more complex textures like cables and lace.

A garment assembly technique where panels are joined stitch-to-stitch using a linking machine, connecting each loop of one panel to the corresponding loop of the next. Produces a flat, flexible seam that's nearly invisible and doesn't create a ridge. Superior to overlock seams for knitwear in terms of appearance and long-term durability. Standard in Quinn construction.

Refers to fibers with above-average length for their type. In cashmere, "long-staple" means fiber over 36mm — the Grade A minimum. Long-staple fibers produce stronger yarns with better pilling resistance because the longer individual fibers are more securely anchored within the yarn structure. The defining quality advantage of Grade A cashmere.

A breed of sheep (Ovis aries) producing fine, soft wool (15–24 microns depending on grade). High-quality superfine Merino approaches cashmere in softness. Advantages over cashmere: more durable under abrasion, better moisture management, more machine-wash tolerant. Not as warm at equivalent weight. Best used for activewear, travel pieces, and high-rotation daily wear. Full comparison ↗

One millionth of a meter (μm). The unit used to measure cashmere fiber diameter. Human hair is approximately 70 microns. Grade A cashmere is under 19 microns — roughly one quarter the diameter of a human hair. The lower the micron count, the softer and finer the fiber, and the higher the price.

The quality measurement for silk — the weight in pounds of a standard piece of silk fabric. Higher momme = denser, heavier, more durable silk. Typical range: 6mm (very lightweight, scarves) to 30mm+ (premium bedding, formal wear). Not applicable to cashmere, which uses microns and fiber length as quality metrics.

Tineola bisselliella, the primary pest threat to stored cashmere and wool. The larvae (not the adult moths) eat protein fibers. Attracted to garments with residues of body oil, food, and sweat. Prevention: store clean, sealed, with cedar or lavender. If infestation occurs, freeze affected garments for 72 hours at ‑18°C or below, then wash and examine carefully.

A dyeing method where the finished knitted garment is submerged in a dye bath after construction. Lower minimum quantities than yarn-dyeing. Risk of uneven color penetration at seams and thick sections. More stressful on the fiber than yarn-dyeing. Generally produces less color-fast results than yarn-dyed alternatives over the long term.

The formation of small balls of fiber on the surface of a knitted garment, caused by friction during wear. Short fibers break and tangle at the surface; the tangled mass forms a visible pill. Grade A cashmere (long-fiber) pills significantly less than lower grades and typically settles after the first few wears. Pills are easily removed with a cashmere comb — they don't indicate a defective piece.

The number of individual yarn strands twisted together to form the final yarn used in a garment. 1-ply: single strand, lighter and less durable. 2-ply: two strands twisted together — the standard for quality cashmere, balancing warmth and durability. 3-ply and above: heavier constructions, more substantial garments. Two-ply is the minimum for pieces expected to last.

A knit construction alternating knit and purl stitches in vertical columns. Creates a fabric with natural horizontal elasticity — it stretches and returns to its original width. Used at cuffs, hems, and necklines to provide a secure fit that holds its position. Rib gauge (how tightly it's knit) determines how well it holds its shape over time.

A repair technique where a specialist duplicates the original stitch pattern of a knitted garment to fill small holes or reinforce damaged areas, using matching yarn. Leaves little or no visible trace when done well. Available from professional reweavers in most major cities — search "cashmere reweaver" plus your city. Often worthwhile for high-quality pieces with significant remaining life.

Section 301 of the Trade Act of 1974 — U.S. law authorizing trade sanctions against countries engaging in unfair trade practices. Used by the Trump administration beginning 2018 to impose tariffs on Chinese goods including cashmere sweaters (HTS 6110.12). Quinn testified before the Section 301 Committee at USTR in June 2019. Current effective tariff rate on cashmere sweaters approximately 49% as of early 2026. Full context ↗

The cultivation of silkworms for silk production. Involves raising the silkworms, feeding them mulberry leaves, harvesting cocoons, steaming cocoons to kill the pupa before the filament is damaged, and reeling the continuous filament from multiple cocoons to create usable silk thread.

A dense knit construction producing a honeycomb-like surface texture. Heavier than standard stockinette at equivalent yarn weight. Creates significant air-trapping between the layers, resulting in exceptional warmth for the weight. A Quinn shaker stitch piece in cashmere approaches the thermal performance of a coat in the softness of a sweater.

Staple fibers are short, discrete fiber lengths (like cashmere, wool, and cotton) that must be spun into yarn. Filament fibers are continuous (like silk and synthetic fibers) and don't require spinning. Staple fibers have more texture and warmth due to the air trapped between fibers; filament fibers have more smoothness and sheen.

The common clothes moth. See: Moth.

Two fundamentally different knitting structures. Weft-knit (the standard for hand and machine knitwear including sweaters) creates fabric in horizontal rows, each row interlocking with the previous. Warp-knit creates fabric from multiple yarns simultaneously, each running vertically. Weft-knit is more common in casual knitwear; warp-knit is more common in lingerie, sportswear, and some tailored fabrics.

A dyeing method where fiber is dyed at the yarn stage, before construction into a garment. Each strand is fully saturated with color all the way through the fiber — there's no undyed core exposed when the surface wears. Produces more color-consistent, durable results than piece-dyeing. Requires higher minimum order quantities. The Quinn standard for all garment production.