How to Buy Cashmere That Lasts: A Quality Guide

If you've been down the rabbit hole of forum threads and Reddit debates trying to work out which cashmere is actually worth buying, here's the short version — the stuff that actually separates cashmere that lasts a decade from cashmere that pills into fuzz by February.

What actually signals quality

Ignore the marketing adjectives. Cashmere quality comes down to five measurable things:

1. Ply. Two-ply (two strands twisted together) is the quality standard — stronger, warmer, and far better at holding shape. Single-ply is thinner and pills fast. If a product page doesn't state the ply, assume single.
2. Grade. Cashmere is graded A, B or C. Grade A is the finest and longest fiber — roughly 14–15.5 microns — and the most durable. Grade C can be nearly twice as thick and wears out far sooner.
3. Fiber length. Longer fibers stay locked in the yarn, so they pill less. Short fibers work loose and tangle — that's what pilling is.
4. Weight (GSM). Denser knits feel substantial and last longer. Very light, papery cashmere is often thin single-ply.
5. Origin. The finest cashmere comes from goats in the cold high plateaus of Inner Mongolia and Mongolia, where the fiber grows longest and finest.

The 10-second quality test

In person: run your hand firmly across the surface. If little balls of fluff form almost immediately, the fibers are short and it'll pill — a lower grade. Then hold it up to the light: a fine, tight knit with minimal surface fuzz is the good stuff. A gentle stretch should spring back, not stay distorted.

Why your cashmere pills (and what's normal)

All cashmere pills a little at first as loose surface fibers shed — that's normal, and a cashmere comb fixes it. What's not normal is heavy, continuous pilling after a few wears, which points to short-fiber, lower-grade cashmere.

How to make it last

Hand wash cold (or a gentle/wool machine cycle) with a mild detergent, lay flat to dry, and store folded — never on a hanger, which stretches the shoulders. Washed properly, good cashmere actually softens over time.

Where Quinn fits

Quinn has knit Grade-A cashmere in Inner Mongolia — sourced from the Alashan Plateau, where the finest fiber comes from — since 2003, and sells it factory-direct, without the department-store markup. In short: the specifications this guide tells you to look for are the ones we build to.

Cashmere FAQ

Is expensive cashmere worth it?

It depends on construction, not just price. What matters is ply, grade and fiber length — a well-made 2-ply Grade-A piece will outlast several cheap single-ply sweaters, so it's often better value over time. But a high price alone doesn't guarantee quality; check the specs.

What is 2-ply cashmere?

Two-ply means two strands of yarn twisted together. It's the quality standard — stronger and better at holding shape than single-ply, which pills quickly. If a listing doesn't mention ply, it's often single-ply.

Why does cashmere pill?

Pilling happens when short fibers work loose and tangle. Longer, finer fibers (higher grades) pill less. A little pilling early on is normal; heavy, persistent pilling signals lower-grade, short-fiber cashmere.

What grade of cashmere is best?

Grade A is the finest and longest — roughly 14 to 15.5 microns — making it the most durable and least prone to pilling. Grade B and C fibers are thicker and shorter.

How do I wash cashmere?

Hand wash cold, or use a gentle/wool cycle with a mild detergent, then lay flat to dry. Never wring or hang it, and store it folded rather than on hangers.

Sources on cashmere grading & care: Bradic, Moth-Prevention, Dr. MUXUE, Hayden Hill.